Sleeps in the car and the chance to reflect on the week, the journey was emotionally harder and physically easier then I expected. I have been totally moved by the reasons why people are here, the guts of Team Battle Back and most of all the generosity of people who just want to help.
Who's in next year??
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I am sure our journey was much more comfortable then the BEF’s 70 years ago.
The journey was quite, starting with our final wreath laying ceremony. The Last Post was played on the bugle that was used to beckon troops at Dunkirk. A Major General on the tour gave a moving speech about how one of his relatives was evacuated from Dunkirk to then go onto Italy and lost an arm and a leg. He then stayed with the army until retirement. He then told us how this was very unusual in those days but now with the work of Help for Heroes and the Army Recovery centres to ensure the current wounded have a future. We then set sail for Dover and reflected on the week, we posed for a photo on parade as a giant H4H, the ceremonial team gave us an impromptu concert – and finally we would applaude them and thank them for the week. As we docked just off the beach a Spitfire came out and gave us a fly past and fabulous arial display. The landing craft were then prepared for our beach landing and off we went. Arriving on the beach to be greeted by cheers and family. The Red Devils then dropped in before we headed to our final hotel and a sleep before the final party! Well the last day of cycling has come round all too quick; it’s going to be a long day! A 5am wakeup call as we have to be in Dunkirk by 10:30 as we are part of the 70th Anniversary memorial.
It was cold at 5am but the roads were flat and straight and our journey was never going to be as bad as the BEF’s in the Second World War. As the guide book says “Hills in Flanders are rare so it would be foolish not to take the opportunity to ride up one when you see it!” Would have been less foolish to ride round it – grr! But the hill as made famous by the Grand Old Duke of York and his 10,000 men! The village of Cassel is at the top of cobbles where my chain locked and I almost fell off - Iain to the rescue and we continued to journey on the footpath – road bikes and cobbles are not a good idea! And the view at the top made it worthwhile, a guide at the top pointed to Dunkirk and the straight road to it – needless to say we didn’t go on the straight road!! We flew down the hill (me still not taking my hands of the brakes) and a few miles later had to stop again to get a photo of my bike hitting 1000 miles! The road then wound its way to Dunkirk and to the beaches were so many were left behind but so many more were evacuated by the Little Ships. We re grouped at Brays Dunes and slowly rode along the seafront to the ceremony, looking out to sea it was hard to understand what these men must have gone through – the area is now so quiet and full of cafes and bars. The ceremony took place before more wreath laying and our last lunch. The BBC tells the story better than me: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/10188650.stmhttp://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/8707657.stm We then had a coffee on the front before heading into town for a march past. We then jumped back on our last 10 miles – that were really 16! The weather had turned and we rode into the worst head wind of the ride and finally we got to a ferry port and a hangar. Here we awaiting our own evacuation, the Royal Marine Commando’s landing craft gave us a lift to RFA Largs Bay – our home for the night. The last of us got on board by 10:30 to be welcome by 3 high bunks and 30 to a room. A taste of being in the Navy!! Is it really the penultimate day of cycling? I don’t want this to be over, it is far too much fun and I am learning so much about the sacrifices that were made in the two world wars and humbled by the people around me.
We were warned about a mile incline up to Vimy Ridge – the Canadian memorial on the Western Front, we must have been getting used to hills as we arrive before we know it. The route had taken us through the woods of the Somme and passed by areas that still had quite well defined trenches. Vimy Ridge is quite possibly one of the most striking memorials I have ever seen, the bright white stone set against the bright blue background. We had another ceremony here and again our musicians did a wonderful job, 3 wreaths were laid with the wreath layers climbing a dozen steps to lay them. We then all had some time to reflect on the battle that went on here and a photo opportunity with the boys in uniform! We followed the Western Front to Fromelles riding through Lens and Loos, the H4H team had a small wreath laying ceremony at Fromelles cemetery – not yet officially open this is the newest cemetery where work has been carried out to painstakingly identify remains so they can finally have a resting place. The afternoon took us into Belguim – we knew we here when the roads turned from wonderful smooth things to pot holed nasties not dissimilar to ours in the UK! As we headed down into Ypres Iain got a puncture and we quickly had a support crew on hand to change it. And a good photo opportunity! We arrived in Ypres late afternoon and were told to stay on the cycle paths - many riders were being told off by the police for not doing so! Out hotel tonight was great – 6 in a room but surprisingly comfortable! This evening was set to be a moving ceremony – the most famous memorial of them all the Menin Gate. Our ceremonial team would take centre stage (although no one is allowed to play the Last Post here apart from the town’s fireman). And our Staff Sergeant did us all proud and bellowed the words “They shall not grow old as we who are left grow old. Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, WE WILL REMEMBER THEM” We had heard these words every day on this journey, such a powerful poem that is as strong the last time you hear it as the first. I think many shed a tear here – the emotion of the week and the physical tiredness getting to us. A lot of people stayed in the pub tonight but I was tired and a 5am wake- up call plus beer can never be good. I found out tonight that I had done my fundraising target and was very moved by the generosity of people that only know who I am because of Tim. Oh and talking of tiredness getting to us, I asked our bugler (who is decorated from Northern Ireland, Kosovo and Iraq) if playing at the Menin Gate was the scariest thing he has ever done. No was the simple answer.... The weather was drier today but still nice and cool – the sun shone through in the afternoon making very pleasant cycling conditions.
The route today followed the line of the Western Front through the Somme – the sheer number of Commonwealth graves on today’s ride was moving not least the scale of Thiepval where 1000’s upon 1000’s of names will live forever of men that were never found. I found this morning hard, I will blame not enough breakfast and a few glasses of wine with dinner! The mornings ride was a little undulating but to my legs it felt like the Alps. But the climb was worth it, the first stop of the day was at the Australian Memorial which looks out towards Amiens and the valley below. I didn’t stop for long, I knew I needed to get to some food and quick – the water stop couldn’t come soon enough and I had 2 cereal bars and a banana a felt much better! From here the sun started to shine and I passed many more memorials and grave yards – I have to admit I didn’t stop as I just wanted a long rest and not miss the ceremony at Thiepval. I arrived just as lunch was being served so had a good hour before the ceremony started. This was one of the most moving ones of the trip – on the 1st July 1916 60,000 British and Dominion soldiers lost their lives here. “Their names liveth forever more” on the monument. The ceremony started with our piper leading us round to the site, here the pedalling Padre gave a moving service and 3 wreaths were laid. The Padre finished his address asking us to find someone with the same name as us on the walls, with a name like Wilson all I had to do was look up and there were 4 or 5 just in front of me. The afternoons ride was better with we stopped at a few of the Commonwealth graves and had a relaxing afternoon. My knee had been niggling and someone suggested I talk to a mechanic – what can a mechanic do about a knee? Drop my saddle an inch that’s what! And now it doesn’t hurt at all – apparently I had been stretching it too far with very pedal stroke – whoops! Cruising towards Arras in plenty of time some of our fellow riders had found a little bar and it would have been rude not to have stopped at what became an unofficial water stop! I arrive in Arras late afternoon to find that the DA staff had been battling with the local to keep the orange arrows in place. Tonight was in the Holiday Inn Express with no air con and a window that didn’t open. But after such a moving day – who cares? I live in a civilised world, will never have to fight in the trenches (I hope!) and have all my limbs intact. At 4am the Big Battlefield Bike Ride team were all awake in their various hotels situated around Dieppe – the heavens had opened and the most almighty thunderstorm was hovering overhead. The thunder came in close and then gradually rumbled into the distance, the street lights were temporarily knocked out and as the rain continued back to bed we went.
Awaking at a more reasonable hour the ground was wet and it was cool outside but at least the lightening had gone, sitting on a metal frame with electricity in the sky didn’t seem appealing. We headed out of Dieppe and the rain began to fall again, the ride became a sea of hi viz waterproofs and it wasn’t long before I was at the side of the road fixing my first (and what turned out to be last) puncture. Although I’m not keen on letting men help me with anything – changing an inner tube is in a whole different league (Dale – I think I still owe you that beer!). So Dale and I are at the back of the pack – even the support crew are in front of us. We rode together and pushed hard so by the first water stop we had managed to get back with the group. The morning was undulating to say the least, but the scenery was great and our trusty musicians sat half way up the first hill beckoning us to the top. After the first water stop the road carried on upwards, we passed the sign for the valley of the Somme and could once again hear the trumpet, the road seemed to flatten out but as it went under a bridge and round a corner the worst hill of the ride was before us. With many jumping off to push I knew I could get to the top and pushed slowly onwards making it to the top still in my saddle (a photo of the musicians was required – not least to catch my breath). The rain carried on but I was warm and dry under my trusty yellow coat, the orange arrows pointing in the direction of lunch spurred me on – the roads now relatively flat. And then I found myself at a cross roads and no orange arrows. Straight across I saw a cyclist but was unsure how they knew where I was going. Within minutes there was a pack of cyclist and many a military man trying to read a map – we decided on straight on but then at the next junction still no orange arrows. We then turned right and within 10 minutes were safely at the lunch stop without too much of a de tour. Lunch today was fab, in a warm village hall – hot pasta, cups of tea and chocolate cake with custard. It was still pouring outside but I needed to push on as the cold soon sets in when you are wet. This afternoon I rode with Rob (his girlfriend Lucy out for the day with a swollen knee). The terrain flattened and the rain stopped and we pushed on through the Somme and to the Crouy British Cemetery. Here there are 739 Commonwealth graves of soldiers that died in the casualty clearing stations of the Somme – one is Corporal harry Minver who was awarded the VC for bayoneting 2 people with the same bayonet. To demonstrate our guide whipped one out of his trousers! We were 45 minutes too early for the ceremony so pushed on to Amiens. I arrived at my lovely hotel (the Mercure) at about 4pm – with plenty of time to get things dry and me washed before a not very French dinner of chilli con carne (and another early night). After a night on the ferry we arrive early into Le Harve, from here we transferred by coach to Senneville- sur- Fecamp. This tiny village is the final resting place of 6 Commonwealth soldiers – 4 “Known unto God” 2 of them RAF pilots.
The local school children had learnt “God Save the Queen” in English and sang to us before laying flowers on the British graves, Bryn then gave them all a Hero bear as a thank you. We then had a short but moving service inside the church from our Pedalling Padre and a candle was lit that would burn for 7 days. From here we had a short walk to the local village hall were our bikes were waiting for us (as well as bacon butties and muffins!). And finally we were off; piped out by our Scots Guard and we were on our way. I was close to the back and could see the stream of riders in front, an amazing sight! Today’s route took us along the French coast to Dieppe. This was to be the most “undulating” day, I actually quite enjoyed the hills, steady switch backs up long hills and fast down hills (although would be faster if I wasn’t glued to my brakes!). Making new friends already we ate up the miles and chatted on the way. Already I had seen members of Team Battle Back and Team Marine who had members with one leg and pedalling a normal bike with a proestic leg and others on hand bikes - this is why we are here. Arriving in St Valery – en –Caux, down on the coast with beautiful views along the cliffs, I could see people up on a memorial and was told lunch was round the corner – round the corner and up a steep incline but nothing compared to the good old Hampshire Hills I have been contending with in training. St Valery-en-Caux was to be the first ceremony stop; here the 51st Highland Division memorial sits on the cliffs overlooking the harbour. In May 1940 the 51st Highland Division were cut off from the rest of the BEF and were heading to Le Harve, most never made it home. Over the next few days we would ride along some of the roads they used trying to get to the coast and the safety of England. This was a taste of what was to come without Bugler from the Band and Bugles of the Rifles playing the “Last Post” as wreaths were laid this was the first of many moving experiences. I hadn’t expected the ceremonies, the ceremonial team or the Battlefield guides - I soon realised this was as much an emotional journey as a physical one. From here there were more undualtions along the beautiful coast and an arrival in Dieppe for a cermony before finding our hotels (and new room mates). A 3 course meal and an early nights was called for. I felt good at the end of day one, a little tired - mainly due to lack of sleep on the ferry and confident that the coming days wouold be a breeze...... I was hoping to blog daily but internet access was limited so I will now tell the story....
My day stated with last minute packing and making sure all the essentials were packed. At 2pm Mum and I departed for Portsmouth, a journey so familiar from when Tim was posted to HMS Illustrious. We arrived at about 3pm to a hive of activity at the Historic Dockyard. Hundreds of cyclists were registering in the boat yard and there was a sense of anticipation in the air. My first taste of Discover Adventure (DA) was being handed a map (handy going by my track record) and tags to attach to my bike and bags. The main bag then went on the back of a truck not to be seen until Dieppe and the bike stored with hundreds of others in the shadow of HMS Victory. After a few hours of milling around Portsmouth the riders all congregated for our first mass carb dinner of pasta, pasta, more pasta and bread. Bryn Parry (founder of Help for Heroes) gave us a motivational speech and we were introduced to the people that would be on hand during the week, the DA staff, our ceremonial team made up of a trumpeter, bugler, piper and two guards who were officially on duty and would play at all the ceremonies. We also were introduced to the Help for Heroes staff and Battlefield guides. We then went out to HMS Victory and in the shadow of one of the Royal Navy's most famous ships the Band of the Royal Marines played to us and the 2nd Sea Lord gave us a speech, the piper played as we all rode to the 2 miles to the ferry terminal - Portsmouth must have wondered what was going on.... More offical info here http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/bbbr_2010.html | ArchivesJune 2010 Categories |
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